Paris on Nothing a Day

The myth of Paris as an unaffordable city is persistent but false. Yes, you can spend a fortune here. You can also spend very little and leave with memories that no amount of money could buy. The secret is knowing where to look. This guide is not about deprivation. It is about discovery. From a beautiful free museum built for the 1900 World's Fair to a Roman amphitheatre hidden in the Latin Quarter, from the grave of Oscar Wilde to a free wine tasting on a Saturday afternoon, these nineteen experiences cost nothing, and they are the ones you will remember longest.

1. Explore the Petit Palais and the Musée d'Art Moderne

The Petit Palais and the Musée d'Art Moderne may not be as famous as the Grand Palais or the Centre Pompidou, but these institutions boast amazing collections, as well as hosting many fantastic special exhibitions. The Musée d'Art Moderne focuses on European art of the 19th and 20th centuries and is partnered with the Palais de Tokyo, the contemporary art centre next door. Recent special exhibitions there have included shows on Sonia Delaunay, Linder and Keith Haring, which required a small entrance fee of around 8 to 11 euros. However, the permanent collection of the Musée d'Art Moderne is completely free, and it features works by Matisse, Modigliani, Picasso and Derain.

The magnificent Petit Palais was built for the World's Fair at the very beginning of the 20th century and was recently restored. It is the home of many important decorative artworks, mosaics and murals from the 19th and 20th centuries. Recent special exhibitions have included shows about the Swedish painter Carl Larsson and Baccarat crystal, which cost just 8 euros for entry. But the permanent collection of the Petit Palais is also free, and the building itself is a masterpiece, with a grand staircase, an interior courtyard and a lovely café in its circular inner garden.

2. Learn Something New at One of Paris's Small Museums

The Musée Nissim de Camondo, on the outskirts of the Parc Monceau, is the city's finest example of elegant living and a stunning monument to French decorative arts. It was formerly the home of the banker Moïse de Camondo, who left it to France in memory of his son, a casualty of the First World War. The museum is not free, but the story behind it is deeply moving.

The Musée Cognacq-Jay, on the other hand, is completely free. It was once the home of the family who founded La Samaritaine, the legendary department store on the banks of the Seine. The museum is set in a charming hôtel particulier, a private mansion, in the Marais district. It is filled with fascinating artworks and historic items from the 18th century, including paintings by Fragonard, Boucher and Watteau. The museum is small, manageable and free. It is open Tuesday to Sunday.

3. Stroll Around Père Lachaise Cemetery

Père Lachaise is the largest and most famous cemetery in Paris, located in the 20th arrondissement. This is the burial place of many notable people, including Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrison of The Doors, Molière, Frédéric Chopin, Honoré de Balzac, Marcel Proust, Sarah Bernhardt, Gertrude Stein and Isadora Duncan, to name just a few. The cemetery is situated on a hill, with many shaded avenues and meandering paths, making it the perfect place for wandering. The graves vary from simple headstones to huge, elaborate mausoleums, complete with intricate sculptures, stained glass and decorative altars. It is particularly beautiful on Toussaint, All Saints' Day, on November 1, when families leave flowers on the graves of their loved ones. The cemetery is free to enter, and maps are available at the entrance.

4. Pay a Visit to Some of the City's Historic Churches

Notre-Dame Cathedral is one of the most iconic buildings in Paris, famous for its gorgeous chapels and exquisite stained glass windows. However, there are other stunning churches within walking distance. Sainte-Chapelle, also on the Île de la Cité, has the most extraordinary stained glass windows in the world. Over the Pont Saint-Michel, in the 6th arrondissement, you will find the Église Saint-Sulpice, which features murals painted by Eugène Delacroix. The medieval Église Saint-Germain-des-Prés, just steps away, is one of the oldest churches in Paris.

Across the Pont d'Arcole, among the picturesque cobbled streets of the 4th arrondissement, you will find the wonderful Église Saint-Gervais-Saint-Protais. Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis, down the beautiful Rue Miron, has recently been cleaned and restored, and it is the home of a famous depiction of Christ by Delacroix. Sitting atop the Montmartre hill is the Sacré-Cœur Basilica, which offers amazing views across the city for free. Just steps away from this famous basilica, you will find Saint-Pierre de Montmartre, the oldest church in Paris, constructed over an ancient Roman temple dedicated to Mars. Entry to all of these churches is free, though some charge for access to specific areas.

5. Marvel at the Panthéon (Free View from the Dome)

The Panthéon is one of the most recognisable buildings in Paris, and many of the best views of the city come at a price. At the Panthéon, however, you can enjoy spectacular views absolutely free. The building was undergoing extensive renovations for several years, but the first part to be restored was the cupola, and it now offers amazing views across the city. The Panthéon is the final resting place of several eminent French people, including Voltaire, Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Victor Hugo, Émile Zola and Marie Curie. Entry to the crypt requires a ticket, but the view from the dome is free.

6. Take a Step Back in Time at the Arènes de Lutèce

The French capital was once an outpost of the Roman Empire, and a huge Roman amphitheatre was situated in the 5th arrondissement, a short walk southeast from the city centre. The Arènes de Lutèce was a myth for historians for many centuries, until it was discovered in the 1860s when workers were carrying out excavations for a tram line. The huge amphitheatre was built in the first century AD and was the setting for circuses, theatrical shows and gladiatorial combat. It was big enough to hold 15,000 people, and its seats and stone walls are remarkably well preserved. Today, the interior terrace is a popular picnic spot and a place for local children to play football. Few tourists find it, so you will likely have it almost to yourself. The amphitheatre is free to enter.

7. Sample Some Wine at a Free Tasting Session

La Dernière Goutte, one of the city's premier wine shops, offers free cheese and wine tasting sessions on Friday afternoons and throughout the day on Saturdays, starting at 11:00 AM. The staff are knowledgeable and speak English, and the selection of wines is exceptional. The shop also offers educational courses in English; check their website for details.

Caves Auge, one of the oldest wine shops in Paris, is famous for its regular dégustation sessions with winemakers from regions including the Loire Valley, Jura, Alsace, the Rhône Valley, Savoie and Beaujolais. Even better, they also host sumptuous champagne tastings twice a year. The tastings are free, but the queues can be long. Arrive early.

8. Enjoy Some Free Cuisine While You Drink

Paris has a tradition of offering free food with drinks. On Thursdays after 8:30 PM, the bar at Les Trois Frères offers free lamb sausage and couscous. At Le Penty, close to the thriving Place d'Aligre, the lively crowd enjoys free kemia, small plates of assorted Middle Eastern appetisers. At the vibrant and welcoming Le Bouillon Belge, the extensive selection of affordable beers and cocktails comes with free moules et frites, mussels and fries. The luxurious Tribal Cafe provides free couscous with drinks on Friday and Saturday nights, and moules et frites on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Do not expect gourmet food, but these offerings are generous and authentic.

9. Wander Through One of Paris's Famous Flea Markets

The Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen, also known as Clignancourt, is the largest flea market in the world. It is a maze of stalls, alleys and indoor markets. In a yard branching off from the Rue des Rosiers, which runs through the heart of the market, you will find Village Vintage, which has a fantastic selection of 20th-century furnishings, vintage clothing and art galleries, plus an amazing café named Tartes Kluger. The market is free to browse, and you can spend an entire morning here without spending a cent.

The Vanves market is smaller but also a great place to find unique items. It closes at 1:00 PM, so arrive early. If you are an adventurous bargain hunter who loves searching through mountains of junk to find hidden gems, you will love the Porte de Montreuil market, open from 8:00 AM to 1:00 PM on weekends. For a refined experience, take a ten-minute train ride from Paris to the Foire de Chatou, the biggest outdoor market in France. It takes place on one weekend in March and again in October. Its nickname, 'Antiques and Ham', suggests what you will find: antiques and ham, and plenty of wine alongside both.

10. Immerse Yourself in Culture at Le Centquatre (104)

Le Centquatre, known simply as '104', is a huge 18th-century structure in the neighbourhood of La Villette. It used to be a municipal mortuary. It was abandoned for many years from the 1960s, and after five years of ambitious renovations, it finally reopened in 2008 as a modern art venue. It is now regarded as one of the finest places in Europe to view contemporary art. The building has a roster of international resident artists, and it regularly puts on shows and exhibitions relating to every type of art form, from painting to video installations to theatre to cinema, with live music and DJs on weekends. It is also a popular spot for dining and shopping, with a restaurant, a café, a grocery store, a pizza truck, a brilliant vintage store and a diverse bookshop. Little ones can be kept entertained at La Maison des Petits, a space designed for children aged 0 to 5. The space is free to enter, and most of the exhibitions are free.

11. Catch a Free Movie Outdoors

In the summer months, there is nothing better than enjoying a picnic while taking in a screening of a favourite film. In the Parc de la Villette, the largest park in Paris, Cinéma en Plein Air organises a diverse selection of outdoor summer screenings, including various English and American movies. Also in this park, there is La Péniche Cinéma, a cinema held in a boat on the Canal de l'Ourcq, with free films all year round and live music on weekends. If you are in Paris during the warmer months, you will also have the chance to attend the Cinéma au Clair de Lune, a programme of classic French films screened in parks from the Place des Vosges to Montmartre.

12. Attend a Free Concert in a Historic Church

Several of Paris's historic churches offer a programme of concerts all year round, many of which are completely free. The American Church in Paris has been hosting free Sunday night concerts for over eight decades. In Notre-Dame, you can experience organ music concerts, Gregorian chants and much more, though many of these require a ticket. The Église de la Madeleine has a diverse selection of paid and free musical events. Other churches offering free music include Église Saint-Roch, close to the Palais Royal; the Église Protestante Réformée de l'Oratoire, situated in the Louvre; Église de la Trinité, close to Gare Saint-Lazare; and Église Saint-Eustache, in the Les Halles area.

13. Go to the Palais Royal Gardens

The Palais Royal is a 17th-century palace with a long and fascinating history. It has been a royal residence, a decadent pleasure zone, and its shops comprised the first open-air shopping arcade in the city. Today, it is an important fashion destination, with its shopping arcades offering luxury brands including Marc Jacobs, Maison Bonnet and Stella McCartney. It is also the location of Grand Véfour, one of the oldest restaurants in Paris, where luminaries such as Balzac, Colette, Proust and Napoleon used to dine. The palace gardens, concealed behind stately walls, are one of the city's loveliest hidden gems, with a central fountain and beautiful rose bushes, perfect for reading or resting. The nearby Buren Columns, a contemporary art installation of black-and-white striped columns in the courtyard, is free to visit and makes for striking photographs.

14. Relax at the Charming Place des Vosges

The Place des Vosges in the Marais district is another former royal palace and a popular place for Parisians to sunbathe and rest on warm days. The park is enclosed by elegant limestone and brick walls dating from the 17th century. There is a spacious square, walkways, and a graceful fountain in the centre, all surrounded by art galleries and cafés. This park is a peaceful oasis in the very heart of one of Paris's most fashionable shopping areas. Victor Hugo lived in a house on the square; his former home is now a free museum, the Maison de Victor Hugo.

15. Take a Stroll Beside the Canal Saint-Martin

The Canal Saint-Martin is a pretty canal lined with trees and accentuated by bridges, making it one of the most picturesque walking routes the city has to offer. To the west, you will find the bustling Rue des Vinaigriers, home to many fashionable bakeries, cafés and coffee shops. For luxurious shops, Rue Beaurepaire, Rue de Lancry and Rue Marseille are the places to be. Rue Lucien Sampaix offers a diverse mixture of shops and places to eat. On the east side of the canal, head down Rue de la Grange and you will discover a small but beautiful chapel, which is a part of the Hôpital Saint-Louis, one of the city's oldest hospitals, established in the early 17th century.

16. Get Active by the Berges de Seine

The Berges de Seine is a pedestrianised section of the Left Bank along the southern edge of the River Seine, running from the Pont de l'Alma to the steps of the Musée d'Orsay. It is a perfect space for jogging, cycling or simply strolling along and taking in the riverside views. In summer, there are free film screenings and concerts. As well as enjoying the lovely gardens, walkways, and performance areas, you can also take part in a variety of organised outdoor exercise sessions. The activities on offer include Nordic walking, running, yoga, boxing and skiing. For extra motivation, you can even have free sessions with a personal trainer.

17. Stroll Through the City's Many Parks and Gardens

The Jardin du Luxembourg is the quintessential Parisian park, with its abundant trees, verdant gardens and beautiful orchards. It has tennis courts, a puppet theatre, the oldest carousel in Paris, and a basin where children love to sail their toy boats. The park is free and open from morning until evening. The Jardin des Plantes, in the 5th arrondissement, is the premier botanical garden in France. It is the home of a huge variety of plant life, with miles of flowerbeds and pathways, historic greenhouses, and medicinal and exotic plants from all over the world. It is also the location of the Musée de l'Histoire Naturelle, the Museum of Paleontology, and the Ménagerie, the oldest zoo in the world. The gardens themselves are free.

18. Visit the Vineyards of Paris

The Fête des Vendanges de Montmartre is among the biggest and best parties in Paris, with all kinds of fun and revelry. It happens every October as a celebration of the Clos Montmartre grape harvest, and the wine flows plentifully. If you are visiting Paris during a different season, you can still take a walk along the Rue des Saules and take in lovely views from the oldest vineyard in Paris. From the dizzy heights of the Parc de Belleville, visitors will experience spectacular views across the city and see a vineyard filled with Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier grapes that were planted in the early 1990s. Belleville's grape-growing history can be traced back many centuries, but production gradually tailed off throughout the 1900s. In recent years, production has increased again, and the grapes are used to make a delicious dry rosé that is stocked in many local shops. The vineyards are free to view, though the wine itself is not free.

19. Explore the Promenade Plantée

The Promenade Plantée is an elevated park, towering above the city streets and extending almost three miles from the Bois de Vincennes to the Place de la Bastille. It was built in the late 1980s over the elegant arches of a viaduct, which now houses the studios and galleries of the Viaduc des Arts. This unique garden walkway is a popular spot for walkers and joggers, and it brings visitors eye-to-eye with an architecturally beautiful part of Paris. The promenade inspired the High Line, a similar elevated garden project in New York City. The entrance is free, and the walk is as beautiful in autumn as it is in spring. The Viaduc des Arts shops are not free, but window-shopping costs nothing.

'Paris is not a city of expensive restaurants and luxury shops alone. It is a city of hidden gardens, forgotten cemeteries, Roman ruins and free wine tastings. The best things in Paris are not things at all. They are experiences, and they cost nothing.'

Getting to Paris on a Budget

Paris is served by three major airports. The most budget-friendly way to reach the city centre from Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG) is the RER B train, which costs 11.45 euros and takes approximately 35 minutes to Gare du Nord. From Orly Airport (ORY), the Orlyval shuttle connects to Antony station for the RER B, costing approximately 12 euros. From Beauvais Airport (BVA), the shuttle bus to Porte Maillot costs approximately 16 euros. A private airport transfer is more expensive but more comfortable, especially with luggage.

Getting around Paris on a budget is easy. The metro is your best friend. A single ticket costs 2.10 euros, and a carnet of ten tickets costs 16.90 euros. Walking is the most rewarding way to see the city. Many of the attractions on this list are within walking distance of each other.